The trio behind Fallow in St James’s London, have announced the opening of their latest restaurant, Roe in Canary Wharf on 22 April. Chefs Will Murray and Jack Croft, alongside Chairman James Robson, are bringing the same nose-to-tail and root-to-stem ethos to Wood Wharf with a concept named after the British Isles’ native deer, an ingredient close to the founders’ heart on account of its environmental credentials.
Set across three floors, the 500-cover restaurant features a 10-seat chef’s table, a mezzanine private dining room and a wraparound terrace overlooking the South Dock Canal. An aeroponic wall looms large over guests arriving. Tended by a full time gardener, the vertical space yields an abundance of fresh produce – with lemon verbena, butterfly sorrel, padron peppers and more featuring heavily throughout the menu. A methodical and environmentally friendly form of growing, the wall gives the team direct access to flavour-packed and sought after ingredients, like the Japanese strawberry variety the ‘Oishii’ – renowned worldwide for its unparalleled sweetness.
Studio Gossamer and STAC Architecture have led on the restaurant’s interior design which features an impressive floor-to-ceiling structure fabricated by 3D printing specialists Fab Pub. The first of its kind, the tree-like design features a texture derived from the growth pattern of corals.
The form, constructed from plant-based bio materials like fermented sugar cane, extends to the counter, setting the open kitchen apart from the dining room. The theme follows through the rest of the space too, with fungi-like planters decorating the walls and lampshades derived from the exoskeleton of corals.
Led by Head Chef Jon Bowring, who worked at Dinner by Heston for 10 years, the flame-fuelled kitchen celebrates some of Britain’s most under-celebrated ingredients. The eponymous roe deer, for example, takes centre stage in a Roe Mixed Grill, championing underused cuts of the meat, with harissa flamed haunch, skewers and sausages served with bright, smoky peppers. Forgotten varieties of fish like wrasse, pouting, dab and tope are sourced from Cornish and Devon waters and transformed into compelling dishes that, the chefs hope, will one day render them unforgettable.
Cornwall and Southern England hold influence throughout the menu as a nod to Jon’s heritage. Reimagining some of Britain’s favourite dishes, like his version of a Cornish Pasty, filled with Maitake and oyster mushrooms, a Madeira gravy and served with a walnut ketchup that cuts through its earthy qualities. His take on prawn toast is served up as a Cuttlefish Brioche with chilli jam (the green jalapenÞos for which are picked from the restaurant’s aeroponic wall, of course).
A homage to the nation’s favourite comfort food, the Roe’s Baked Potato is served with Lincolnshire Poacher cheese sauce, nori-seasoned shoestring fries and kombu ketchup as part of the restaurant’s feasting menu. Other dishes, like the skewer platters (think Smoked Lemon Chicken with hazelnut satay; and Monkfish with Lemon and Chorizo) sit atop a wooden block as a delicious table centrepiece to pick from, alongside an array of cleverly-topped Wildfarmed flatbreads. A snail ‘Vindaloo’ is served atop one of these flatbreads, coated in an aromatic sauce made from smoky bacon, mustard seeds, cumin and coriander.
A commitment to zero-waste sits strong throughout, with desserts no exception and the Caramelised Banana Parfait a fitting example. Using the whole ingredient, the banana is steamed whole while the flesh is combined with mascarpone to make a parfait. The skin is submerged in a vanilla syrup for 14 days, dried and fried to create a crisp garnish. The Roe Vienetta, with mint chocolate cream and Mexican marigolds is a nostalgic nod to dinner parties past and incorporates the vertical wall’s lemon verbena, basil and oregano.
The drinks list, curated by Bar Manager Tommy Long, draws on his prior experience working across the bars of both JKS and Jason Atherton’s The Social Company. Cocktails are inspired by the jewels of an English garden. A Lemon Verbena Swizzle features a blend of vodka, the growing wall’s lemon verbena and tonic. The Carrot Gimlet is a delicate twist of No. 3 Gin, clarified carrot cordial and a dash of citrus while the Apple Sour comprises apple syrup, butterfly sorrel and Buffalo Trace. The 300-bin wine list, led by renowned Wine Consultant Victoria Sharples and Roe’s Head Sommelier Ben Cardwell, focuses on organic, biodynamic and low-intervention wines while also showcasing classics, with bottles starting from £38.
James, Jack and Will are excited to bring the famed Fallow Sunday Roast to Wood Wharf following the opening. With succulent dairy-cow rump, middle-white pork belly, smoked leeks, and smoked venison all regulars, the offering will be a welcome addition to Canary Wharf’s Sunday lunch scene. The launch of breakfast will follow, with their signature Fallow Royale (a delectably filled croissant roll) making its own appearance, of course.
Source: Hospitality & Catering news
